K J E L L WAS HERE: Madagascar Sept. 2016

Madagascar is a micro-continent in the Indian ocean east of Mocambique. This is the fourth-largest island of the world and had in 2012 some 22 million habitants. Capital of Madagaskar is Antananarivo which has approximately 1.6 million habitants. Madagascar had a monarchy until it collapsed in 1872 and became a French colony that lasted until 1960. Today Madagascar is a republic and one of the poorest countries in the world.
A lot of research is ongoing to establish some more knowledge of when the first humans came to this island. Archeological findings has dated the first appearance of people around 2000 BC. A lot of the people on the island today came from Borneo and Indonesia. Most like they crossed the sea using outrigger canoes.

Customs from Borneo and Indonesia can bee seen today. Example is the use of rickshaw for transport.

A lot of the people have the same characteristics as seen in these eastern countries. Along the western part of the island there are people coming from the west, Africa.

These smiling kids have their origin from the east.

Madagascar is famous for its remarkable variety of plants and animal species. Evolution had free conditions to take place. 90% of the species found here only exists on this island; i.e endemic.
To understand this uniqueness it is important to look at the geologic development of Madagascar.
Almost in the middle of Godwana land, the ancient Madagascar existed about 182 million years ago. Other present day continents in Godwana was Africa, Antarctica, India and Australia. Then - about 115 - 120 million years ago Madagascar, together with India broke off from eastern Godwana and drifted east and north. Finally, from ca. 88 million years ago Madagascar separated from India and Seychelles.
Madagascar has therefore been separated from other mainlands during this long time span. Some species here had to wave goodbye to there relatives of the old Godwana land and start their own development. Some species came later, most likely riding on rafts of plants/trees from Africa.
Due to isolation and varying biotope on the island, evolution took place.
Example are the Lemurs, famous to Madagascar, who evolved into different species due to different climate, vegetation and hight above sea level. Another example is the extinct Elephant bird. This was a ten foot tall bird, a relative to the ostrich seen today in Africa.

One of the locals where willing to dress up and show glued together parts of a genuine egg
from an Elephant bird. More info: Elephant Bird

The humans arriving Madagascar is the most likely cause for the disappearance of the Elephant Bird. Before the humans came here large parts of the island where covered by rainforest. It has been estimated that 80 - 90% of the rainforest has been lost due to human activity. Lots of plants and wildlife is dependent on the rain forest. Another critical factor is the enormous erosion that takes place also due to lack of trees that binds the water.

Lack of trees leads to enormous erosion of the soil. In the hills seen in the background of
the picture, large cuts can be seen. The river is yellow due to loads of eroded sediments.
Bridge collapse caused by unstable soil and/or an earthquake.

Large collapses of soil can be seen, specially in the central parts of the island. Thick (4-5m) of soil was mostly seen overlying basement rocks. Here huge cuts in the landscape could be seen. Some gullies where cutting the roads. In the western part, in the lower elevated parts of the island, less erosion is evident.

Meeting the people in Madagascar shows that happiness and smiling faces can be independent of how much you own. From sun rise to sun set everybody was working. Most of them cultivating rice but also making building blocks for houses, looking for sapphires in the rivers, fishing or working in mines.

Rice field just outside Antananarivo. The whole family works entire day.

Zebu, the Madagascar cattle is very import for the people here. They use them for work but also for religious purpose. Also very common to find on the dinner table.

Working in the rice field with his Zebu

Chameleons are a "must see" in Madagascar. About 180 known species are found here. Number may still increase as new species are expected to be found. They come in different sizes - from 16 mm and up to ca. 60 cm.

With its very long tongue the chameleon catches its breakfast with high precision.

An interesting small creature, the famous Giraffe Weevil - about 2.5 cm long (males) is definitely worth meeting. Not easy to find where they live in the rainforest but with a good local guide it can be done.

Giraffe Weevil

Lemurs are specific to Madagascar. The favored hypothesis may be that the early lemurs originated in Africa about 60 million years ago. They must have rafted across the Mozambique channel and diversified into the different species found in Madagascar today.